Make This: My Ideal Martini

Hint: it's a 50/50

In NYC last week I met a good pal for drinks before a meaty dinner at Minetta Tavern. I hadn’t had a drink all week. Thursday evening would be my first. I wanted it to count.

We went to Commerce Inn, the Shaker-inspired tavern from the West Village hitmakers Rita and Jody. I really love the spartan room, with its Salem Witch Hunt schoolhouse aesthetic. I realize that doesn’t sound all that great on the page, but it’s a very theatrical space - a bit of Colonial Williamsburg plopped in the middle of Manhattan. I really like it, even more so on a chilly winter’s eve, which this was not.

But to cut the heat of a warm NYC evening, we got a nice dose of chill from the bartender! He was almost aggressively rude - this kind of dismissive took effort. He was ready to break some hearts. I was able to look past it as his fellow barman was very kind, and because I’ve worked with Rita and Jody in the past. I hosted them years ago for a special dinner at Leon’s. They’ve always been very kind to me.

So: like water off a ducks back! But I must say the grumpy bartender vibe is so outdated. It’s cool to be kind.

On the plus side, this grumpy fuck made a fantastic drink! I was thrilled to see my favorite Martini variation on the menu: a “50/50.” For the unfamiliar, the 50/50 is a heady combination of half gin, half dry vermouth. I like mine with a twist. I’d wager most Martini drinkers prefer a bone dry ‘tini, pure booze. I like the slow liftoff you get with a 50/50, the gentle acceleration into the night.

I say it’s not a Martini without the vermouth, it’s just a glass of booze. And while Dry Vermouth may have been woefully bad in the past, there are now a variety of exciting options, imported from Italy for your quaffing pleasure. I don’t favor the light coating of the glass (with the excess being tossed in the sink) that has become de rigueur. I like a hefty dose of the stuff.

The version at Commerce Inn, painstakingly crafted by the rude barman (who was, I must admit, very good at making drinks) was among the better 50/50’s I’ve had. You might think they all taste the same, but subtleties of gin, dry vermouth, and little finishes (he added something at the end — bitters, or maybe a touch of saline solution which has become common) mean that a two ingredient drink can have infinite variations.

I had another as I eased into dinner at Minetta Tavern, and though the staff there was exceptional, the drink was not nearly as great as the one from Commerce Inn. It got me thinking: would I rather have a great drink from a rude bartender, or a subpar drink from a lovely bartender? To be honest, I’m still not sure, and that is why the restaurant business confounds me.

If you’re looking to make your own 50/50 Martini at home, know that’s all about the details. Find the absolute best glass you can buy. You can do no better than glassware from Kimura and their Japanese craftsmanship. If I’m having the rare cocktail at home, I really want it to SING. Here’s my choice, which clocks in just below 5 ounces. Throw it in the freezer 10 minutes before you’re ready to drink.

Gin is a personal preference. Beefeater is my default because it’s what my Grandmother drinks, and she’s had plenty, I can promise. (This is the same grandmother that eats popcorn and beer for dinner every Sunday.) For a Martini I might step it up a bit. In this case, Plymouth Gin, a favorite of Hitchcock, Orson Welles, and Roosevelt. It is an elegant gin, meant for sipping slowly.

For Dry Vermouth, head to your local spirits store and take a deep dive. The choices are varied these days. I don’t recall what they used at Commerce Inn, and I was terrified to ask the bartender for a picture because I thought he might ask me to leave. I’ve always loved Dolin Dry Vermouth, even though it’s from France, which feels a little wrong.

Pour your selections, equal parts, into a beautiful vessel. In a shameless bit of self promotion, I’d suggest our Jack Rudy jigger and our handblown mixing glass, which we have produced in North Carolina. In a cruel twist, we’re sold out of it at the moment. While you’re at it, you’re gonna need a barspoon for stirring. I’m told it’s Father’s Day soon.

Finish it as you wish. I take a large twist of lemon, expressed into the drink and dropped in to marinate.

Turn on a great album. I suggest this:

Enjoy.