Go Here: Puglia Primer

Understanding this special part of Italy

Among a certain type of traveler, interest in Puglia has been on the rise in recent years. Much like Copenhagen and Lisbon, the Southeastern region of Italy (forming the heel of Italy’s boot) has been on the short list of destinations for those seeking space far from the madding crowd but still want to feel like they are part of the action. These places have rich cultural heritage, strong culinary offerings, and a little dose of luxury in lodging choices.

As I mentioned in last week’s newsletter, tourism to the “best of” Italy destinations (Rome, Florence, Venice, Amalfi Coast) has been absolutely booming since the world came roaring out of COVID with pockets full of cash and an appetite for adventure. The trusty destinations we’ve known and loved are now absolutely overstuffed and brimming with anxiety inducing lines, crammed streets, and hungry tourists battling for a bite from the same ten places Tik-Tok suggested.

This is why we spent a week in Puglia this summer, for a dose of Italy far from the madness. I would easily count it among my favorite Italian destinations, worthy of including on your short list of places to visit in the coming years.

In the run up to our departure I did a lot of research, as I always do. This included texting trusted resources, reading coverage from outlets (newsletters and magazines) I respect, and a wary combing of Instagram. I could write a whole post about preparatory research when traveling (and perhaps I will), but what I found in this research was that no one explained how to make sense of this special place, or why it was special in the first place. Instead I found lots of seaside swimming pics and some recommendations for places to eat and where to stay. That’s a start — but when I arrived I realized the place really demands a certain kind of approach and understanding in order to maximize a visit, especially in the throes of summer heat.

By no means am I presenting myself as an expert on the region. This was my first visit. But over the years I’ve realized I am good at traveling: I understand what’s needed to commune with a place, understand its rhythms, and exist within its framework rather than forcing my own expectations upon it, as many travelers do.

Below you’ll find a petite primer on Puglia. Some notes on where to stay and what to eat - sure. But more importantly, how to BE.

As always, I hope you find it of some use, and it might inform a bit of your own travels.